BasherDesigns » Electrical

WR Fuel Pump Replacement

Basher — Tue, 26 Jul 2011 17:51:30 +0000

Yes, the WR250R isn’t perfect, well at least for a few ’08 builds that is. As far as I know, newer models have not experienced any issues. The symptoms are the fuel pump stops pumping(of course) when riding in hot weather. Once the pump cools down it will run until it gets hot again. I experienced this issue first hand during our Idaho trip. One of the WRs on the trip wouldn’t run until we let it cool down.. then we could run for a few miles and it’d die. Luckily we were able to get it to stay running once we hit tarmac.

Given that my WR is in that ’08 build I purchased a new fuel pump a few months back & decided I’d throw it on. It’s hot here in Missouri and I have a 2 day ride coming up… and I don’t want to be stuck out on the trail! So I took some photos and video while I did the replacement just for others who haven’t pulled the pump out or wonder what it looks like. Enjoy…

Disconnecting the Fuel Pump

You will need to disconnect the wiring plug and the fuel line connector. It’s very easy to do, but take your time. DON’T FORCE IT!

The wiring plug has a pinch release, simply push it in and wiggle it free.

The fuel line has a two step process to disconnect it. First, push the orange lock connector away from the tank. Next, on each side of the connector, squeeze in the blue buttons.. this will release the connector and you can wiggle it off the fuel pump inlet port.

Old Fuel Pump in Safari Tank

Pulling the old pump out of the tank

New Fuel Pump

I also decided to replace the fuel pump rubber gasket.

As well as the bolts, I remember one of them getting a bit munchy when I installed my Safari tank. They’re cheap and it beats having one strip out.

New Pump(left) / Old Pump (right)

Installing New Fuel Pump

For the Safari tank, zip-tie the vacuum hose to the pump so the fuel in the Safari wings gets dumped to the fuel pump.

When tightening down the fuel pump bracket, be sure to tighten the bolts in a star pattern. Tighten one side, then the opposite side. Continuing in this pattern until its nice and snug. I also put blue Loctite on each bolt for assurance.

Once the pump is button down, it’s time to replace the tank. Connect the fuel line connector back on the new pump as well as the wiring plug. For a better fitment of the Safari tank, I added a small piece of Kydex under the lower mount and a small space washer to the upper mount as show below.

Looking into the tank you see the new fuel pump right at home…

As you can see I did not lower the low-fuel sensor. I just felt like I like it where its at, it helps me be mindful of the others I ride with fuel needs. When my reserve light comes on, its time to stop for the others. Then, I put some fuel back in the tank, turn the key and instantly noticed the new fuel pump is VERY quiet compared to the original pump. Hit the start button and she started right up.

Now my WR should be ready for another 100,000 miles… at least that’s my plan! If you have any questions just let me know by commenting below.

I ordered my Yamaha parts from Service Honda! Here’s some part #’s you may need…

FUEL PUMP COMP: 3D7-13907-00-00 Retail $312.73 Your price $213.29
BRACKET, FUEL PUMP: 3D7-24491-00-00 Retail $23.72 Your price $16.84 *
O-RING: 1S4-24486-00-00 Retail $21.93 Your price $15.58
BOLT, BUTTON HEAD: 92012-05016-00

WR250R: Ignition Key Mod

Basher — Wed, 08 Jun 2011 17:58:15 +0000

I wanted to share this little modification I did on my ignition key in conjunction with my HDB top clamp setup. There’s been a few questions on the WR Mega Thread and I’ve received a few messages about this.

The Question:

“With your HDB setup on your WR250R, does the ignition key interfere with the top clamp at all?”

The Answer:

“Only a tad but enough to cause a bit of fumbling when removing the key. I’ve never had an issue inserting the key, only removing it. So here’s what I did to resolve that and it works great!”

I used my Dremel to round the edge of the key off. The stock key comes to more of a point and this can cause you some aggravation when you try to insert the key. With gloves on it makes it even more frustrating. Don’t get me wrong, without any mod to the key you can still place the key in the ignition. This just makes it a bit smoother.

DIY Powerlet-to-USB Adapter

Basher — Thu, 08 Apr 2010 01:15:15 +0000

I needed a GOOD way to recharge my phone, iPod and camera while on the trail with my Yamaha WR250R. If you’ve ever used the cigarette adapter on the bike, you know how easily they pop out hence the invention of the Powerlet plug. Snaps in and stays put! Here’s what is needed, a waterproof USB plug and a Powerlet plug PPL-002.

Here’s some photos of how I wired this up. Works perfect!

Tin the ends and slide on the provided grommet.

Pull wire through Powerlet clamp

Connect wires to Powerlet, trim tinned ends as needed.

I added some hot glue to the inside of the gromet for a bit more waterproofing

Close up the Powerlet plug and Complete!

Here’s it connected to my Powerlet socket and charging up my Android….this will come in handy on the TAT this year!

I think this is going to work very well and keep my devices charged while riding!

LED Turn Signals – 4 for $20!

Basher — Fri, 26 Mar 2010 01:57:34 +0000

I really wanted to get the big stock turn signals off my WR but really didn’t want to pay $40 for two Wheeling Cycle signals, so I looked on eBay and found these signals:

Got them from eBay user “the2wheels”, his item title is “Motorcycle 14x LED Turn Signals Indicators Short x 4″. Now even though he shipped them from Hong Kong they only took 7 working days to get here and he has all positive reviews so.. what the heck, lets install them!

As you may have seen, I’m running a custom tail light/signal combo from 12oclocklabs and I love this tail light. It has a back off flasher when you apply the brakes but I thought the turn signals needed to be more visible, so I’m adding a set of these LED turn signals along side my tail light. Here’s my video on the tail light install.

One thing I wanted to be able to do is replace the turn signals easily if I broke one because of a fall. So I decided to use the stock wiring connectors from the stock tail light assembly for the new LED turn signals and connected up the 12oclocklabs tail light signals with a small pigtail off the hot wire like this:

I always solder my connections whether if its wire-to-wire or wire-to-connector. Don’t forget to slide on a piece of heat shrink tubing before you start soldering!

Here you can see my pigtail bullet connector that I use to plug the 12oclocklabs tail light turn signal wire to.

Here is a close up of the turn signal mounted up. Notice I used wire loom to protect the new turn signal wires from the elements. It also makes the install look very clean.

Both the tail light and new signals flash for better visibility.

A view from the rear….

So far I’m very pleased with this nicely priced LED turn signals and my wiring choices. If you have any questions please let me know!

WR250R/X Service Manual Signal Wiring Diagram

Install Video – Eastern Beaver 3CS : Part 2

Basher — Wed, 03 Feb 2010 04:19:19 +0000

In Part 1 of my Eastern Beaver 3CS install I showed you how I pulled the wires up to the controls. Here in Part 2 I show you how I soldered all the connections, ran the fuse boxes under the seat as well as tidying up my new bars and a slight modification to my Cycra handguards.

I hope this video will help others out there getting ready for this install. If you have any questions on what I did please send me a note. Enjoy!

Click here to view the embedded video.

To mount up my GPS, I ordered a RAM ball mount, part # RAM-B-236U from GPSCity.com. With this setup I can get my GPS lower and still have great visibility. Last thing I want to do is see my GPS get demolished after a ”get off”! Here’s some final shots:

Diagrams

Symtec Motorcycle Grip Heaters Diagram

Powerlet Socket Diagram

Install Video – Eastern Beaver 3CS : Part 1

Basher — Fri, 29 Jan 2010 15:26:57 +0000

Here’s how I ran my Eastern Beaver 3 Circuit Solution from the battery to the controls. It took a few different tries before I figured out the best way on my WR250R. I hope this helps others out there…

Click here to view the embedded video.

On to Part 2, making the connections!

Install Video – 12oclocklabs Taillight

Basher — Fri, 15 Jan 2010 15:50:18 +0000

Its no fun being sick and having new parts sitting in the garage waiting to be installed. Even worse when its new parts to the market, like this 12oclocklabs taillight integration using a DRC Edge taillight. The programming is just awesome on this light, with 4 different turn signal patterns, flash brake light, and plug-n-play installation. Well, I was feeling better and thought I’d capture the install on video, so here you go!

Click here to view the embedded video.

Programming Signal Patterns

Hold in the front brake.
Turn the key on.
Once current pattern displays, let go of brake and tap the front brake 12 times.
To cycle through different signal patterns, tap the front brake until get to the one you like.
Turn the key off. Tail light is now programmed.

HDB Top Clamp Arrived

Basher — Thu, 14 Jan 2010 06:00:36 +0000

I have work to do! Highway Dirtbikes custom top clamp has arrived. Look for a full installation post soon.. I need to get over this strep throat first!

Update: Here’s my install video for the HDB clamps!

12oclockLabs Taillight Ready to Ship!

Basher — Fri, 08 Jan 2010 20:14:12 +0000

12oclockLabs just posted over on WRR Dual Sport Forums that the first batch is about ready to ship… getting excited for sure! Here’s a few sneak peak photos…

Ready to ship!

A full installation/review once I receive this beauty…

Highway Dirtbikes Top Clamp

Basher — Thu, 07 Jan 2010 05:26:38 +0000

Paul from Highway Dirtbikes sent me this sneak peak photo of my top clamp. He machined the clamp to fit a rocker switch I sent out to him, looks like it fits perfect! Once I receive this top clamp, along with the bottom clamp and ProTaper EVO bars, I’ll be posting an installation/review post of my setup.